Must be something in the water up there in the Baltics, where lingerie brands took their place alongside leading womenswear designers at two recent fashion weeks.
In Estonia last month, expat Kriss Soonik brought her London-based loungerie collection back home to Tallinn Fashion Week and walked off with the designer of the year award.
And last week at Riga Fashion Week, the still-new Latvian brand Amoralle cemented its reputation as one Europe’s most exciting young labels with a runway show filled with extravagant, aristocratic outfits.
It’s hard to overstate how far Amoralle has come in a very short time: it debuted at Riga FW in 2011 under the name Sockbox, presenting itself as a fashion hosiery label. Two years ago it rebranded as Amoralle, with an expanded collection of nightwear pieces that included opulent old-world boudoir robes unlike anything else on the market.
Amoralle‘s SS15 at its the latest fashion week presentation included more than two dozen styles, from lacy sheer slips and velvet bodysuits to showstopping productions like its Royal Feather Robe (above), an ivory tulle maxi trimmed with ostrich feather and a velvet sash.
Designer Inese Ozola has created an unmistakable aesthetic with such wildly dramatic looks, and you can see a number of surprising influences come together in her collections — old Hollywood glamour meets Eastern European folkloric costume, with a nod to the imperial palaces of yesteryear and even color schemes borrowed from military dress regalia.
Amoralle‘s market presence has grown as quickly as its design reputation: it now operates 27 stores worldwide and, according to its website, has doubled sales every year since its launch.
And for anyone gushing over these looks, there’s more good news. Styles from the SS15 collection went on sale immediately after their Riga FW unveiling, both on the Amoralle webshop and a special fashion week popup shop promoting Latvian designers.
Amoralle ships worldwide but everything is made-to-order, so get your Christmas gift orders in soon!
Below are more images from the Riga Fashion Week spectacular runway show.
[Gabriella Kountourides (above) is a 22-year-old zoology student at Leeds University, UK and one of three women behind an online petition that asks Victoria’s Secret to apologize for its ‘Perfect Body’ ad campaign. The petition has received more than 23,000 signatures and provoked a social media discussion around the hashtag #iamperfect. In the article below, a version of which first appeared on the fashion website Glammonitor, she explains why the issue is worth fighting for.]
Ask any woman how she feels when she looks in the mirror and you are likely to get the same answer: “Sometimes great, sometimes awful.”
It’s human nature to have doubts about oneself. This can surely only be exacerbated by the way women are portrayed in the media today. Almost without exception, one type of woman is represented as ‘the ideal’. She is usually tall, light-skinned, young, very skinny — and classically beautiful. Why are all the other women in the world invisible?
Remembering my school days, I recall the moment I noticed my body shape and, for the first time, having doubts about it. What I saw in the mirror didn’t reflect what I saw in shop windows. This was even worse for friends of mine, some of whom were diagnosed with eating disorders. It remains a very dark cloud on an otherwise happy childhood.
This feeling was perpetuated as I grew older: the same type of people were in movies, and anyone with the slightest ‘flaw’ was humiliated in the tabloids. Constant criticisms of women in the public eye: ‘She has put on weight.’ ‘She is anorexic.’ ‘Try her crash diet.’ We are constantly bombarded with double messages, fat-shaming larger women and then skinny-shaming the slim ones. Women can clearly do no right.
The diversity of women and their body shapes is breathtaking; the only ‘perfect’ is that belonging to the airbrush. Perfection is subjective. However, a new advert by Victoria’s Secret would have us believe otherwise.
There is a shopping centre near where I live, it’s the biggest in the area and attracts thousands of shoppers each day. At the exit there is a Victoria’s Secret store, and on October 19 I walked past it to leave, but this time something stopped me in my tracks. A picture of three women with identical body shapes and the words “The Perfect ‘Body'” displayed across them.
The image, advertising a bra range called ‘Body’, made me so angry that I posted immediately on the Leeds University feminist society Facebook page, asking if anyone else had seen this and wanted to do something about it. And two other students, Frances Black and Laura Ferris, felt exactly the same way.
What made us so cross was the juxtaposition of those three small words across three tall, skinny models with interchangeable bodies. The advert reinforces the idea to all its consumers what the company’s vision of ‘perfect’ is. It screamed out to passers-by that if they did not look like this, there was something wrong with them. So we sat down in the coffee shop at the university and wrote our petition.
Victoria’s Secret is one of the most popular stores in America (2013, BrandIndex), and their shops are global. Their target consumers are girls from teens to late twenties — our most insecure years. Young girls are bombarded with images of ‘perfection’ every day, but this went a step too far. It labeled them. This kind of messaging is damaging to girls (and boys as well), and a shop like Victoria’s Secret has a significant influence over how our society views women. This, to me, is an example of irresponsible advertising.
I am the proud step-sister of two wonderful younger girls, I lead summer camps for 12-year-old teenagers and, while I try to promote healthiness and body confidence, campaigns like this one destroy it with a single line. According to the Confidence Coalition, 90% of all women want to change something about themselves, and I strongly believe that it’s (because of) adverts like these.
Since we started the petition, it has gone global, with coverage on major media networks like the BBC, ABC and CTV, as well as almost all the UK newspapers, leading magazines and other global news organizations. It has to date almost 24,000 signatures. The response we have had has been overwhelming. We have been inundated with emails from girls recovering from eating disorders, mothers, and fathers, all supporting the campaign and saying how adverts like this are potentially damaging.
Victoria’s Secret has choices. We really hope that the company will listen. We ask for a simple change — to remove the wording “the perfect body” and show you care about the consumers you target.
If you agree with me, please support our petition here.
[Ed. Note: Victoria’s Secret has not responded to requests for comment on this subject and has not contacted the petition organizers.]
While everyone was dressing up as Nicki Minaj for Hallowe’en, the ‘Anaconda’ rapper had her own ideas: she used a popular lingerie set as the foundation for a ‘Bad Teacher’ costume.
In fact, about the only thing she added was the apple, apparently a gift from a teacher’s pet.
Nicki used the red-and-black colorway from the Charlotte range from Parfait by Affinitas for the holiday ensemble. It’s one of the brand’s most popular pin-up looks, offering plenty of support with light padding and bold, solid color combinations.
You can find the line on HerRoom in North America or Large Cup Lingerie in the UK, with bras priced around $45 and the bikini brief at $18. There’s also a high-waisted brief that offers a full vintage look for about $20.
Apple not included.
You can see Nicki’s selfies on her Instagram account, which also offers shots of a few of the thousands of girls who showed up at Hallowe’en parties on Friday with booty boosters and matching stuffed anacondas to complete their Nicki costumes.
Montreal brand Feu De Vénus returns this fall with a series of sophisticated styles that look more like jigsaw puzzles than traditional undergarments.
Designer Véronique Lepage, who launched FDV a year ago, has an eye for sharp angles and intersecting lines that give her pieces the appearance of structural solidity, despite the soft stretch satin and similar fabrics used to create the illusion.
For AW 2014-15, she’s updated some of her original designs, like the powerful Axelle set, and added several new ones, notably the memorable Zelda range (above) with its lace-up high-waist bottoms.
Feu De Vénus likes to explore the interplay between contrasting elements, which is brought to life in the new Sophia style range (lavender lace and black satin) and the all-black lace Maya grouping.
These are dramatic boudoir styles aimed at the luxury consumer in North America and available both through the FDV shop and premium retailers like Nancy Meyer (US) and Dolci Folie (UK). Everything is fabricated in Montreal, making Feu De Vénus an affordable alternative to British labels with a similar aesthetic.
Below are images from the new FDV campaign, which uses shadows and light to create the study in contrasts that is the brand’s signature.
With a growing controversy over its latest advertising campaign and whispers of a possible boycott of its upcoming TV show in London, Victoria’s Secret served up the ultimate distraction yesterday — not one, but two, jewel-encrusted Fantasy bras.
The U.S. lingerie giant has neither acknowledged nor responded to an online petition asking it to remove ads that show 10 slim models under the caption ‘The Perfect Body’. The petition has gathered almost 20,000 signatures and sparked a social media debate under the hashtag #iamperfect, with most people saying the ads are damaging to women and unrepresentative of the female body.
Avoiding the issue is going to become harder for America’s biggest lingerie company, however, as it undertakes a media campaign to promote this year’s Fantasy bras and the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, which tapes next month in London and airs on Dec. 9.
The company will begin its media juggernaut for the new “Dream Angels Fantasy Bras” tomorrow morning on Good Morning America, where Brazilian models Adriana Lima and Allesandra Ambrosio will face the tough questions.
This year’s blinged-out bras are the 19th and 20th created by the company to promote its annual pre-Christmas TV show. Although often criticized for their unrealistic price tags (which have reached $15 million), the Fantasy bra is also the centrepiece of a marketing campaign that generates many times its value in free advertising around the world.
The 2014 edition marks the first time Victoria’s Secret has offered two Fantasy bras, which this year are priced at $2-million apiece and bear a strong resemblance to the bedlah costumes of Arabic belly dancers.
Both pieces were crafted by Swiss jewelry house Mouawad, which also created the $10-million bra worn by Candice Swanepoel in 2013. Last year’s version was reported to be the first one that Victoria’s Secret has ever sold to a customer, although the company also offered a $300 replica edition for the first time.