Young lingerie designers often encounter a harsh reality when they enter the business.
Regardless of how well your college grad collection was received or how artistic and innovative your design concepts might be, the fashion world can be notoriously unwelcoming to new talent and new ideas.
Smiling industry comrades often turn out to be predatory copycats and ruthless competitors. Consumers are not easily impressed and are reluctant to give up long-held brand loyalties. Business development costs always exceed expectations, and many young startups are soon crushed under the weight of a thousand unforeseen details and accumulating expenses.
It takes long hours, deep pockets and a thick skin to make it to your second year, and good old-fashioned bloodymindedness to get any further than that.
For those reasons, a young brand’s one-year anniversary is at least as important as its launch date: finally, all those first-time mistakes and should’ve-seen-it-coming calamities are behind you. A brand’s prospects are infinitely brighter on the first day of its second year than on the day it debuts and everyone gushes approvingly.
One person who understands this reality is Naomi De Haan, founder of the young UK luxury label Edge O’ Beyond, which is about to enter its second year in business with a sophomore collection that it will present to retail buyers next week at the Curve Expo trade show in New York.
You might recall that Edge O’ Beyond made a sensational splash last summer with a unique line of elegant French-inspired undies trimmed with opulent 18K gold-plated chains. The company’s first collection was picked up by A-list retailers like Coco De Mer in London and Journelle in New York. And predictably — in one of those ironic indications that you’re doing something right — imitators started popping up with cheaper foreign versions of detachable bling like that used by EOB.
We asked Naomi what unexpected lessons emerged from that whirlwind first season in the business, and here’s what she told us:
“We’ve had a completely crazy year,” Naomi said. “I’ve learned so much!”
And her best bottom-line advice for other newcomers? “Sticking to what you love is really important.”
Edge O’ Beyond‘s sophomore collection includes a number of new concept sets such as the Louisa line (top photo) with appliqué cherubs on a nude tulle base, the silk Karis kimono (with a tie that doubles as an eye mask) and the bridal Evie range inspired by gold filigree.
New colorways include rouge, electric blue and ivory, and each set features the brand’s 24K gold-plated ‘O’ rings and customizable 18K jewelry chains.
One thing hasn’t changed about this growing newcomer, though: all the style ranges are still named after family members and friends.
Below are more images from EOB’s SS2015 lookbook and individual shots of the new style ranges. Photographed by Max Montgomery and Dominic Storer and modeled by Lola Mcdonnell and Ioanna Ntenti.
SALE NOTE: Edge o’ Beyond is holding a flash sale until next Sunday, offering 33% on their signature Becca range. Use the code “FLASHBECCA” at checkout before midnight Sunday to get the discount.