Andreea Badala is one of the lingerie world’s genuine visionaries, though she might bristle at being pigeonholed by the term ‘lingerie’.
The founder of the fascinating Romanian label Murmur, Andreea has been on a quest for the past three years to elevate the shapes and silhouettes of classic lingerie into dresses and other R2W fashions. Bringing underthings out of the closet, so to speak.
“Why should underwear be the only clothing to complement the erotic act?” she asks in her website bio. “Why not womenswear itself?”
Murmur has been answering that question since 2011 with a growing catalogue of harnesses, bras, skirts, tights and multi-use corsets and a diffusion line, called Take Away, that lends some of its ideas to youthful streetwear.
Andreea is not alone in her quest to marry ready-to-wear fashions and underwear. The ideas that inform Murmur‘s collections can be traced back to 90s experiments by Gaultier and McQueen (where Andreea once worked) and to forward-thinking European design labels like Bordelle, whose girdle dresses transformed the lingerie landscape over the past decade.
It can be argued, though, that no one has pursued this evolving style aesthetic with more focus and conviction than Andreea Badala. And with Murmur‘s new SS2014 collection called Orbicular (below), she achieves the most fully realized iteration to date of her original vision.
Bullet bra tops are paired with pencil skirts, pronounced cup shapes are built into sheer blouses, exaggerated corset lacing adds flair to shapewear-inspired evening dresses, and strong graphic lines (that resemble sewing patterns) boldly suggest the shapely contours that lie beneath.
Men will look at women in these head-turning garments and think they’ve finally gained that most coveted superpower — X-ray vision. And women will have to confront an unprecedented dilemma: if I wear a dress that looks like a bra and girdle, do I still have to wear real underwear too?
Make no mistake, this isn’t the same thing as all the peekaboo looks that are driving the much-discussed lingerie-as-outerwear fashion trend. It’s more than that. Murmur brings the evocative and arousing details of lingerie to the surface where they can’t be ignored and, in the process, obliterates the dividing line between bedroom and street fashions.
Very, very cool indeed.
Where To Buy: Murmur is popular among edgy celebrities worldwide, but its distribution is still mostly focused on Europe. For best results, use the brand’s webshop or the excellent Parisian online boutique Mis En Cage, and check its growing list of retail stockists. We are unaware of any North American boutiques that carry Murmur, so if you know of one, make sure to tell Lingerie Talk!