The photo campaign for the new lingerie collection from GlobLove includes something rarely seen in fashion photography these days: a model smoking a cigarette.
It’s obviously a prop (in some shots the cig is not even lit) but it’s such a glaring anachronism in our post-tobacco world that it leaps off the page.
It’s also a risky strategy in the luxury intimates industry, which prefers to show a highly sanitized — and healthy — vision of modern femininity.
But this isn’t just another attempt to cash in on the overplayed Mad Men craze, with all its delicious and politically incorrect sins. It’s a serious attempt from the young Montreal label to capture the underground spirit of 1960s New York and in particular the enduring appeal of Edie Sedgwick, the tragic waif who inspired Warhol, Dylan and many others.
That, too, might seem like a risky reference point for a line of silky lace boudoir fashions. Edie’s famously messy life was like a cautionary tale for party girls everywhere: she was tormented by addictions, family tragedies, medical emergencies and train-wreck relationships, and died miserably.
Not an obvious choice for a lingerie campaign, except for this overarching truth: men were, and continue to be, mesmerized by Edie and her overexposed boyish body. And successive generations of young women have sought to emulate the poor-little-rich-girl’s chaotic YOLO sensibility, however self-destructive it ultimately was (Edie died of a drug overdose at age 28).
And, as much as any ’60s icon, Edie (above) made the idea of living in your underwear a conscious style choice (in one of her Warhol films, she spent the entire movie in bed wearing just bra and panties). Given that legacy, it’s a wonder more lingerie brands don’t pay her tribute, or royalties.
GlobLove‘s spring collection is called Factory Girl after the most famous of Edie’s movies, and photographer Bernardo Fernandez shot the new campaign in an underground New York factory to recreate the legendary look of Warhol’s creative milieu.
And designer Liana Artinian knows the campaign could draw some flak, especially from anti-smoking activists.
“We really wanted to convey the feeling of the 1960s New York socialite crowd, Edie Sedgewick especially and the time she spent as Warhol’s muse,” Liana told Lingerie Talk. “We also found a lot of inspiration from Brigitte Bardot photos and other actresses of that era. Almost every photograph of these women we looked to for inspiration had them portrayed smoking (which) was not as taboo as it is now.”
“I believe that the true job of an artist is to convey as accurately as possible the source of their inspiration,” said Liana (who doesn’t smoke). “I understand it may be offensive to some [but] promoting or idealizing smoking is not the intention of this shoot or of globLove. [It’s] to really transport the audience to a certain era and staying true to a creative vision, which I think is important and something I have tried to conserve consistently throughout my campaigns.”
GlobLove, which is distributed in boutiques across Canada as well as the Quebec chain Simons, has built a strong following over its first two years in part by creating ambitious ad campaigns to draw attention to its very feminine garments. (Its debut was accompanied by this stylish take on Alice in Wonderland.)
GlobLove’s Factory Girl range is a very market-friendly set of light, coquettish pieces in shades like black, rosedust and sunset, most of which you can see in these campaign images. For product details, visit the company’s online shop.